Sunday Style... Or Lack Thereof.

Admittedly we were underwhelmed by yesterdays "Sunday New York Times Style" Issue on male dress. Perhaps its because we long to celebrate the avant garde looks the younger, fresher, designers blasted the runways with a few weeks past - or perhaps we are absolutely over actors-as-models-as-actors (what happened to industry purity? I mean, we are certainly not the third Reich of fashion, but Alicia Keyes as Michelle Obama was a bit much, no? Where's Iman when we need her most?) In any case, the point still stands, The Times was a bore. However, the spread did have some interesting moments when it came to the resurgence of Nylon Fabric and the Suddenly-male High Waisted Pant.

Now tread lightly Sirs, these modern trends could at once make you look every bit the aggressively-informal, women's fabric wearing, dandy... oh wait? That might just be the point. See, publications have agendas and The Times is certainly no different. The 116 page spread (70 if you don't count the onslaught of advertisements) highlights many a staple-designer (see Thom Browne and Raf Simons) and makes stops at Steve McQueen and "Euro Stars" (the European take on the modern male), but is otherwise just a reverberation of styles-gone-by. With updates inclusive of only peaked collars for day and scarves as belts (been there, done that), the under-whelming theme speaks more to "un-doing" the well-polished man than "up-dating" the modern gentleman.

On Nylon: While this paper-thin, somewhat un-breathable fabric (remember Nylon gym smocks? The one you wore during "capture the flag?") They weren't too comfortable were they? Hell no. They stuck to your sweaty skin, made noise when you walked and if the fabric got stuck in a zipper you could kiss the whole piece good-bye, unless you wanted to take a glue gun to your wind-breaker and risk melting the synthetic fibers... But in general? Avoid looking like a high school kid readying himself for a track meet and forgo this look. The Times might compare you to James Dean to sell this look, but let us warn you: You'll just look too young to be taken seriously.

On High Waisted Pants: Now, Sirs. Listen up. We love high waisted pants. They serve to lengthen the leg (but certainly shorten the torso) and have been around since the 1920s (a time when male dress was rebelling against the frothy looks of female fashion. Think Jodhpurs). However, if you do opt for a high waisted look, let it be the stand out item of your outfit. If you pair the pants with an embellished blazer or patent leather sneakers you have entered into "Look at THAT kid!" territory and fingers will be pointed. How to pull them off? Pair with a slouch T (a la American Apparel) and roll up the hem for a breezy, causal look. Slide into a pair of top-siders without laces and assert the fact that you are not taking yourself too seriously, regardless of your apparent penchant for trends.
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The spread also made note of Steve McQueen's friendship with Yohji Yamamoto but did little to highlight the ever-cool designer's Fall 2009 line. This amazingly responsive line is a gut wrenching articulation of the current economic failure. The Fall collection, featuring bulky knits, a complete disregard for tailoring and a nod to bo-ho chic we've thus far only seen on the likes of Mary Kate Olsen and her cohorts.

And while we love the marriage between Yamamoto and McQueen, we wish The Times would dare to be their aesthetic equal and attempt to stake claim amongst the "tastemakers" of today and develop a voice that actually resonates amongst the screaming, belching, tightly wound and loosely hinged designs we've seen this season and stop finding so much comfort in the echoing sounds of their own voices past. Times are changing and we won't wait with you.

Cheers and happy hunting for high waisted jodhpurs of your very own,
The Swills.